Out the door by 5:30, we walked the mile to Bright Angel trailhead and charged down, thinking 10 miles of downhill would be a treat. It was steep with water bar posts or slabs on edge about every 5 ft, creating a series of high steps. This is good for trail preservation, but tough on the legs. There were bathrooms at mile 1 1/2, 3, and Indian Garden campground at mile 4 1/2. That is the limit of how far down most day hikers go. And the park service is trying to minimize peeing on the trail. It seems to work. It also helps that a member of the soapberry bush was blooming all along the trail. Smelled so good.
Several mule trains passed us, leaving their little treasures behind. Once they decided to take a break right on the trail, backing up hikers in both directions. Customers sat on their mules while the leader told stories.
Eventually we reached the very green, Colorado river and crossed on a silver suspensión bridge. At Bright Angel campground people lounged along the creek under towering cottonwoods. We envied them, but still had 8 miles of climbing to reach Cottonwood camp. The day wore on, becoming hotter as the sun penetrated deep into the canyon. It was a slow trudge, but eventually we arrived. A twelve hour day full of picture taking and conversing with other hikers. At least 20 hikers were doing the south Kaibab to bright angel loop. That is a good test of gumption! The campsite has a picnic table, backpack hanger, and food storage box. Tomorrow we start the tough climb up to the north rim.
Mountain Peace 